Cold frame – Upgrade II


I needed more space so I decided to redesign the cold frame. The walls should be upright, not anymore under angle so more trees can fit if I arrange some kind of shelf for smaller trees.

Idea was good…

Shape redesign

The walls are up now:

End result

The inside:











Nevertheless all trees still didn’t fit into it 🙁 Instead of stopping gathering new ones I figured out I can make another cold frame in front of my house 😀 The “sickness” is incurable! Something to do next autumn.

Increasing transparency

20171105_085213The roof at the moment is nontransparent insulation which I will change later to a 2 layer greenhouse walls so that light can enter also from above. Sides do give lots of light but more is always more 😀

I made 2 sheet fiberglass “window” instead of the half south wall so more light can enter and I can peak into the inside without opening anything and check how the fans work etc.


The cold frame showed to be fairly warm and it should offer protection to more sensitive species while Finish spring is not yet stable with temperatures on the plus side. With such protection extending the growing season by starting the spring earlier should be possible.

When trees start to transpire there will be more humidity inside and closing hermetically is not an option so ventilation is needed. I decided to try active ventilation on the basis of already measured temperature and humidity controlling when the fan would be turned on.

20171105_085228The fan is installed in the bottom right side wall, blowing the air out:20171105_085402






The right photo shows how vent is opened when the fan is switched on.

20171105_085500The fresh air would enter on the left side wall, from the top (photo on left).

Both air holes have one direction vents, simple ones, around 1€/piece from Bauhaus. They close the hole by gravity pulling the cover.

I set the new air to come from above and leaving the cold frame from the bottom to avoid natural ventilation effect. If the vents let air flow opposite then when air is warmer inside it would rise up and could leave the space sucking in the cold air through the bottom vent which I wanted to avoid not to lose precious warmth. This way the vents will be (should) closed as long as the fan doesn’t blow. First trials with the fan showed it does work, when fan is on the vent opens. I am not yet sure how will it work with the other one because I assume there will be some air entering through imperfect closure holes but it doesn’t really mater through what place it comes in. If it is not enough the other vent will open.

The fan is connected to TP-link wifi controlled power outlet. The decision to turn it ON/OFF comes from KumoApps which is a feature of wirelesstags products. A simple javascript can be installed to the cloud account which on the basis of temperature/humidity values decides what to do and sends the command to the power outlet thus turning the fan ON/OFF.

At the moment the script does the following:

  • temperature<0°C = fan is OFF
  • temperature between 0°C – 15°C and humidity between 80%-100% = fan is ON
  • temperature above 15°C = fan is ON

The values can be set without changing the script by mobile app remotely so this will be very handy. I am planning to modify the script to do the decision depending on  the outside temperature too (example, if outside is -5°C and inside +1°C -> don’t blow air) but won’t do it before I see how this behaves. Improvements will be very simple and easy to do.

The drawback of this solution is that if wifi/internet is down I will have the fan blow or not blow until it comes back and the new trigger event happens. This could be done more complex and safe but those I will do on the run. It is all in software. The net is relatively stable so more than 20 mins without it twice a year is risk worth taking.

I did try making the same with standalone, no-internet depending device. I found a 14€ piece which didn’t work out of the box. It was so unstable that I through it into garbage at once.  Similar more trustable got so expensive that I went with internet dependent solution.

Crazy ground “heating” idea


I dag a ditch 2 m long and around 20 cm deep into which I put metal pipe. On both sides are bendable plastic pipes. The idea is to push the air through to bring warmer air to the space above. The ground thermal capacity is much greater than of air and there is constant influx of heat from below and there is no danger it would cool down significantly the space underneath the pots.

One one side of it I installed a small CPU fan which would be turned on when needed to bring more warmer air.

The first trials were not very positive and I am not sure if I will even use this. The pipe needs to be buried deeper, around 50 cm to get more significant effect of warmth. Like this I do get 2-3 degrees warmer air than outside but its volume at the moment seems to be negligible.

This can be solved much easier and with the greater effect with just a simple heating cable.


I planned some plant lights to start increasing daylight earlier but at the moment am not sure if I do anything like that. There is tome until the spring and the trees are at the moment so cramped with some under the shelf that I most probably will postpone this until next year.

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1 Comment

  1. Jani

    Interesting – hope you get this right, ventilation is the number one problem in the springtime.

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